thailand

sunset at pai canyon in pai, thailand

sunset at pai canyon in pai, thailand

 

Thailand! This was a country that I never felt a massive urge to go to right away since I felt like I had seen/read/heard so much about it for years. But I guess I had seen/read/heard so much for a reason! It is GRAND. Amazing food, lovely people. It’s definitely the most tourist-focused Asian country I’ve ever been to but that doesn’t mean there is not a helluva lot of loveliness to explore, enjoy and eat! I hung out in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pai and a few of the islands (Koh Lipe and Koh Lanta) during the month I spent in Thailand in late 2019. I would recommend all of the places I went to anyone who is traveling to Thailand — every single place had it’s own charms and eccentricities. As with anywhere I go in Asia, I focused on the food… which is clear in the notes below. Also, get massages. Lots of them. Tons of them. ALL OF THEM. And become BFFs with 7/11 because it is a truly wondrous part of the Thai experience.

Bangkok

Lots of good street food and neighborhoods to explore but Bangkok is so massive that it can take some time to get around. Not my favorite Asian city in the world but definitely has lots of great things that I’m glad I got to see/explore/do/eat.

Eat at:

  • Raan Jay Fai (for crab omelet)

  • ChaTraMue (a tea shop chain that makes the best thai iced tea and green iced tea EVER)

  • Kor Panich Sticky Rice (for mango sticky rice)

  • Prachak (duck noodles)

  • Sala Rattanakosin (just for drinks on their rooftop at sunset to see Wat Arun)

  • Kuay Jab Nai Huan (pork soup noodles)

  • Rung Reung Pork Noodle

  • 55 Pochana

  • Bamee Kon Sae Lee

  • Sabaijai

  • Wattana Panich (beef noodles)

  • Pad Thai Ekkamai

  • Lek Seafood Silom (steamed catfish in lime and chili)

  • Boat Noodles in Victory Monument (vendors along a small alley)

  • Hom Duan

  • New Chu Ros Pochana (for noodle soup dish)

  • Jek Pui Curry Rice

  • Daotai Southern Thai Food (thonburi)

  • Karim Roti Mataba

Neighborhoods to explore:

  • Chinatown (street food on Yaowarat Rd at night, explore alleys in daytime, sampeng market)

  • Siam (shopping: go to Absolute Siam Store, Siam Square One, Siam Center, Gaysorn Plaza)

  • Thonburi (local markets, old canals, wooden homes, wang lang market)

  • Thong Lor / Ekkamai (cool local areas)

  • Bang Rak

  • Silom

  • Sukhumvit

  • Ari

  • Sathorn

  • Banglamphu

Places to check out:

  • Wat Arun (also see the view of it from across the river at sunset)

  • Wat Pho

  • Benchamanophit Temple

  • Khao San Road (touristy bars and restos)

  • Soi Nana (speakeasy bars)

  • Soi Cowboy (red light district / bars)

  • theCOMMONS (cafes/creative space in thong lor)

  • river boat ride to go into the canals

Night Markets:

  • Talad Rod Fair Train Night Market (friday)

  • Ratchada Rod Fai Train Night Market (any night)

  • Siam Gypsy Night Market (wed-sun)

  • Patpong Night Market

  • Saphun Phut Night Market

  • Talad Neon

  • Palladium Night Market

Markets:

  • Chatuchak (Jatujak) Weekend Market (must do)

  • Nang Loeng Market

  • Bobae Market

  • Khlong Toei Market

  • Pak Khlong Flower Market

  • Sampeng Market

  • Tha Tian Market

  • Wang Lang Market

  • Pratunam Market

Floating markets: (check open times!)

  • Taling Chan Floating Market (not as touristy, weekend only)

  • Damnoen Saduak Floating Market (more touristy)

  • Bang Nam Pheung Floating Market (small but close, fri-sun, 8am-2pm)

Farther outside the city:

  • Amphawa Floating Market (fri-sun, 47 miles outside city)

  • Mae Klong Train Market (45 miles outside city)

Chiang Mai

I love Chiang Mai because it’s a small city with a lot of markets. Basically heaven to me. Plus it is home to what is now one of my favorite dishes in the whole world: khao soi. This delicious curry noodle soup dish was my obsession when I was in Chiang Mai. Try as many bowls from as many places as you can! I also got a lot of massages here because (like in all of Thailand) they were everywhere and v cheap.

Explore:

  • walk all around the old city. explore as much of it by foot as you can!

  • Nimmanhaemin neighborhood outside of the old city (cool shops, restos, etc)

  • Northeast corner of the old city (cute cafes, somphet market, etc)

Eat at:

  • Khao Soi Mae Sai

  • Khao Soi Khun Yai

  • Khao Soi Lam Duan

  • Khao Soi Samerjai

  • Khao Soi Islam

  • Chang Phueak Pork Leg Rice (aka cowboy hat lady)

  • Chiang Mai Gate Night Food Market (lots of vendors, open every night)

  • Saturday Night Street Market (Wua Lai Walking Street)

  • Sunday Night Market (through the middle of old city)

  • Kiet Ocha Khao Man Gai

  • Sirichai Khao Man Gai

  • Sorn Chan

  • Huen Muan Jai or Tong Tem Toh (both specialize in lanna cuisine aka northern thai food, try nam prik and the sausage)

  • See You Soon cafe (western) — has a cute boutique attached

  • Reform Cafe (western)

Shop / markets to check out:

  • Somphet Market

  • Warorot Market

  • Ton Lam Yai Market

  • Anusarn Market

  • Mueang Mai Market

  • JingJai Market

  • Chiang Mai Night Bazaar

  • Linen Space

  • there are some great vintage shops around like Bann Khlong Ngae and

  • there a few huge second hand clothing stores all next to each other on Atsadathon Rd (Reused Clothing and Toro Secondhand Market are two of them). I also read about Clothes Dumpster but never made it there.

Stay:

  • Mammoth Boutique Hotel

  • Green Tiger House

Pai

Such a great place in the world! Pai is something else. So relaxed, hippie vibes abound. Lots of places to hike and enjoy the outdoors (Leon and I really loved the hot springs). And the street market that happens every night in town is true perfection. Rent a scooter and exploooore!

Do:

  • Tha Pai Hot Spring

  • Pai Canyon for sunset

  • Pai Night Market (every night! so good! all the food!)

  • stop by Love Strawberry Pai and Coffee in Love

  • Big Buddha for sunset

  • Malamong Art Cafe is cool

  • Jazz House for live music

  • Pai Yoga Shala for morning yoga

  • Fluid swimming pool

Koh Lipe

This was my very first destination in Thailand and it is the most lovely little island. I’m so glad we got to spend time in this smidgee lil slice of paradiso. We stayed on Pattaya Beach and I would recommend that since it was the calmest waters (so clear!) and close to all the restaurants and cafes, whereas some of the other beaches on the island are much windier/rougher water (but def check them out while you’re there).

Do:

  • walk the Walking Street any time of day for the cafes/shops but it’s especially amazing at night time. some of our fave restos were Roti Mina and Thai Lady Pancake Shop (either of the 2 locations on the street).

  • we did a snorkel boat tour one day that I would highly suggest — Koh Lipe is surrounded by some rull rull beautiful reefs.

Koh Lanta

A much bigger island to explore than tiny tiny Koh Lipe — we loved Koh Lanta. We stayed on Khlong Kong beach which was great (loads of beach cafes and lodges, and it’s a long beach to walk up and down) but I’d also suggest Khlong Nin beach, too.

Do:

  • every day there is a local market somewhere on the island (and it’s always amazing), you just have to find it! I googled/asked our hotel to figure out where it was each day. There will always be the most delicious foods there like sticky rice and fried chicken, sugar cane juice, pad thai, loads of street food snacks and thai iced tea.

  • rent a scooter and explore! go to places like Old Town and Saladan. Don’t miss the beaches down at the southern tip of the island like Bamboo Beach.