Oaxaca is a magical place. A beautiful state of Mexico. I spent most of my trip there in Oaxaca City and the closely-surrounding areas so that’s where my notes focus. I adored my time in Oaxaca and can’t believe I haven’t been back since my trip in November 2016 — gotta change that asapppp.

General food notes

• eat moles

• drink mezcal

• drink pulque (milky fizzy fermented agave beverage)

• drink atole (sweet, corn based)

• eat quesillo (local string cheese)

• eat tlayudas (jumbo-size tortillas topped with refried beans and meat)

• eat tamales

• drink hot chocolate flavored with almonds and Ceylon cinnamon

Where to eat

• Casa Crespo (they sell chocolate too, good rooftop dining + bar, get fried squash blossoms)

• Casa Oaxaca (enfrijoladas are good and the mole)

• Restaurant la Olla

• Tlayudas Libres

• Zandunga

• Los Dazantes

• Restaurante Catedral

• Itanoní Tortillería y Antojería

• La Pitiona

• Mercado 20 de Noviembre (eat at one of the fondas)

• Los Pacos (great mole)

• Mercado Juarez

• La Teca Restaurant (15 mins outside of town)

• La Biznaga

• Itanoni

• Criollo

• Cabuche

Where to drink

• Mezcaleria Cuish

• La Mezcaloteca (moody, drink from gourd cup)

• Los Danzantes Mezcal Reposado

• Casa Crespo

• El Cortijo la Mezcaleria

• In Situ (cool dark bar, take home jar of pickled agave flowers)

• Los Amantes Mescaleria

Treats/coffee

• chocolate shops near zocalo

• Museo de Nieves Manolo (weird ice cream flavors)

• Paleteria Popeye (get goat milk popsicle, cajeta)

• Cafe Brujula (good coffee)

• Cafe Nuevo Mundo (great coffee + breakfast)

• Cafe los Cuiles (coffee + brek)

• Cafe la Antigua Gourmet

• Cafe Cafe

Where to shop

• Mercado 20 de Noviembre

• Central de Abastos (largest and least touristy market)

• Mercado Juarez

• Realistmo

• Tlacolula market (Sunday only)

• Xquenda

What to do

• Hierve el Agua (obvs!)

• see the handicraft villages

Where to stay

• Casa Oaxaca

• El Diablo y La Sandia